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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.